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Nice, glad you thought so!

It's tough to pickup on sarcasm here, I'll assume that was your goal. You can do as you please, I'd tend to want to wait for the next gen of Bambu printers though. The reason for these videos is to help people who have purchased this printer and require solutions to make it more reliable. If you weren't aware, I have lots of videos showing the issues with this printer and I've done what I can to find solutions. Have a good one.

I think that's a good idea, I was trying to keep it simple to start but I'm willing to test anything.

I'd love to test metal 3D printed parts, I have a video showing some parts I had made by PCBWay and they were pretty impressive. They were made from Stainless steel and Aluminum. I've since polished the Aluminum even more and it seems like a completely solid homogeneous part. I'll see what I can come up with to setup some 3D printed Metal part tests. I need some smaller parts or bigger equipment for those tests I'd think!

0.6 isn't much, if it were me, I'd try to use the shims to get it a little bit better, but it's not so far out and it'll work just find as-is.

@@NeedItMakeIt I do however experiencing some minor issues with print quality. A test cube comes out pretty much fine with just 0.1-0.2 mm of the 30 mm but that can be because of shrinkage. I did one test with several one layer squares and some of them came out looking like the end of the nozzle scraped into it or something. I then read that you should let the heatbed soak at 60 before starting the print. It then looked ok I thought but I then did a print with a rather large rectangular base and then the lines did not adhere together instead. I think that is if the nozzle is to high up? I wil try to use the spacer thing and I might just use some aluminium tape since that is about 0.12mm thick since I only have PLA currently. It should not compress and would withstand the temperature. I have the K1 Max so it have a 3-4 mm thick machined aluminium plate as the base so it should hold mostly flat. The variance on the unheted bed was just 0.76mm so not so big difference to the heated one. My highest point is in the middle on the left side at +0.54 mm against the glas and slope down just 0.1 mm towards the left corners at +0.44mm while the lowest point is the right corners at -0.11 mm with a slight bow towards the center of the right side that lands just around +0.1mm. So I do wonder which screw I should put the spacers to get it flatter.

Yes, heat soaking will improve your results, I made a video on this, it is called "Let It Soak" in the video description, there is some code you can copy and paste into your slicer which will automate the soaking process. The Max has problems with the bed warping, the issue is a combo of the aluminum plate thickness along with the speed at which the bed heats up, which for that printer is very fast. I have to get back to a video, but if you need some more info, let me know!

@NeedItMakeIt I think it might have been that video I got the tip from. Tried to make a one layer square on the whole bed to test it out, and I could definitely notice the warping before i canceled it.The low corner had low adhesion, so it was just laying down individual strands attached to the border and where it was higher towards the middle on the right side it was instead matte and had some uneven marks perpendicular to the nozzle movement which is rater strange. You might know what would cause that. Will try to make some smaller items like a fan grill for the bed fan and see how that comes out.

That's great! This video seems quite un-popular for some reason compared to the rest of the videos, in any case, I'll keep on going, there are lots of ideas for how to improve the connections or even to combine the concepts from different connections to achieve the best results.

@@NeedItMakeIt I think the video might be underperforming because the title and preview do not make it clear this is part of the "3d printed joints" series. Looks like a regular "how strong is PLA" test video.

That's good feedback, I'll try something different to give a bit better context and see if that helps!

They've made some minor changes to the purge cycle, they may have changed the formula a bit as well. I've had great success with the BIQU Panda Jet, it forces the air exactly where it needs to be to cool the filament and prevent it from coming into the chamber. It has a lot to do with the nozzle material and to some extent the nozzle temperature as well. I think the wiping system is novel and works for most materials, it's not 100% reliable for PETG, it needs something like a felt pad to wipe over to ensure no material is left.

@@NeedItMakeIt does your printer have to same wiping and cleaning attachments like the a1 mini has? As soon as I commented yesterday the filament gods were listening and my hose connector I was printing out of petg cf decided to not 😂 it was horrible looking.

It doesn't have quite the same method, I think the A1 series are better because they...well fling it off of the nozzle, for the P1 and X1, it instead rubs it off (that sounds terrible). It has a cylinder made from Teflon which pinches the filament off, but if the filament is too flexible or too sticky, it likes to contact the nozzle and then it will stick and make an awful mess in your print, or in the buildchamber.

@@NeedItMakeIt gtfo! The fling is king 👑. No wonder. It’s way more expensive too. That doesn’t make a hole lot of sense. Yeah the a1 mini is definitely the best 3d printer I’ve owned. It’s my first printer but that’s not the point. I’m super happy I didn’t get the prusa mini.

Yes, others have used it on the SE, there was some confusion at the beginning, but they are the same. The only difference is the steel plate below the bed, the SE has more hollowing out which doesn't impact anything so it should work just as well.

You're welcome! I think they did a pretty good job of addressing most of the issues. I think they still need to improve the extruder setup, it looks sleek, but it lacks support on both sides of the gears and causes them to come out of alignment when pressure is applied by the filament coming between them.

Thanks! I have many more to come. I have one that's pretty cool coming this Saturday

That'd be nice to have, there is probably space on this printer to do that.

@@NeedItMakeIt I saw an stl file for a mount on thingyverse.

This printer isn't so nice for input shaping, it lacks the g-sensors from factory. I'd need to buy the kit and install and re-run to gather the results. I'm willing to do it though.

Ah, interesting, I was going to go a little different route, similar vein of thinking though. Use the print as a shell and use a structural material for the inside and get the best of both.

One larger bolt or something that can go through completely to keep tension would be great. I like your thought process here, let me see what I can come up with!

LOL. I'm sure there are better OSBs out there, but I will tell you from experience. I tried to save some $$ and use OSB for workbenches, it worked for the top, and for the lower shelf, but not for mounting casters. When off-center force was applied because the casters were not directly under a 2x4 it peeled the OSB apart and cause the whole bench to fall abruptly. I replaced it with plywood and use longer screws and that solved the problem.

I have another really cool one coming up, I don't know the outcome yet, but I'll be doing both deflection and torque on the parts today and should be ready for Saturday. I'm hopeful that it will work the way I think and it could be a great option to make stronger parts without using any more material.

Yes, I agree. I can apply a force of nearly 250lbs, the handle is quite small and it's hard to get any more than that. My woodworking vises are closer to 600lbs and my giant ATHOL No95 vise is over 2000lbs. I have a couple of load cells and it's fun to test these things out even though I'd never use close to that force for anything I do. Can you do me a solid and check out the follow up video and see what you think. I've since threaded and installed the piece as well and it works perfectly. ruclips.net/video/o1vrfEl1uc8/видео.html

@@NeedItMakeIt O I did not see that follow up video, now I have. Very nice!!

Yes it will, I've had a few people already try it out and there is only one difference, and that's on the steel plate below the bed, it is more hollowed out on the SE than the KE. That does not impact anything for the installation so it should be G2G!

I wanted to revisit this, so maybe I can set something up in a future video.

I've seen this issue in the industry as well and we would use thick 1" CDX exterior grade fir plywood. When we would screw into the side of the plywood, it would easily split it apart. I'd have to test other types of plywood to get a full picture, Baltic birch plywood comes to mind as one of the better ones. I can certainly run some tests.

@@NeedItMakeIt I would find that interesting. I would be curious also to see twisting test along the layer lines (for plywood and for filament).

Disregard. It looks like you linked both the bad one and your improved one and I just didn't open all the links.

I liked the others only because I mentioned them in the video. I'd recommend printing in a color that's not similar to your spools, it's easier to tell that they're in there. A few times, I've not noticed them inside of a black spool, and they've come out and hit the floor pretty hard.

@@NeedItMakeIt thank you for the reply. It’s quite humid in my office so I’ll be printing your designs.

That would be 36 degree rotated around the z axis?

I think that could be right, if we're calling the layers and extrusion the "Grain" it makes sense that like wood we'd have the best results with parallel grain.

I don't really do prints for other people, with shipping and material etc. it isn't justifiable at this time. I'm sure there are sites you can have models printed from someone local. If there isn't a site like that, there should be so you can save on shipping.

I've designed each of the connections to come together without glue. Some connections would do better with an adhesive I agree, some connections would push the adhesive out while trying to bring the joint together. I think using a software to predict is a great idea. I had the module in fusion, but it is quite expensive, I'll get it again if I can get enough income to pay for it.

Could be, I've also tested for deflection in a separate video and the red failed far more than the grey. I am told that Grey is one of the strongest colors, I would like to run tests to remove the variables. each test piece is completely red and completely grey, and then have a few samples of each for a better average.

Is that a video request?

With some small changes it could have also performed far better. I think one idea is to somewhat lock the ends in, to do that I'd need to bring the parts together from the side and then add a wedge to further tighten the connection. I really like that connection, it's best for tension and compression, that's the original intent of the design when it was being used in Timber Framing. This is a connection that we would use when I was a Timber-Framer. We didn't have material long enough and were forced to join them, the parts were in a Bent and would normally be in tension. They'd also have support from a King Post or 2 Queen posts Through-tenoned from above, or a post below off to the side. Being able to assemble and disassemble by removing a single wedge is simple and effective.

You're very welcome, I'm glad you liked it!

All of that can be arranged, I have a few videos I need to finish up and I'll see about getting setup for some more testing.

@@NeedItMakeIt looking forward to it!!

Was it Thomas S that did the video on this? I can't recall where I've seen it. I'd like to run some tests with Red Vs Grey, it seems as though Grey is far more durable.

I can arrange that test. When I was young, I worked for a hardware store and I remember when it first came to market, I bought an entire 3/4" x 4' x 8' MDF sheet for 9 dollars. It was not fun to work with though, the dust and the final weight of the furniture along with how it absorbed the paint. It has it's uses though, nice and flat, consistent thickness. I think that's why you see so much MDF used in laser cutting. They'll always be able to cut through the material with the same amount of passes, with other materials incl. plywood, that's not at all the case.

I think that's a great idea!

That's great info, I'll follow up with some more testing videos to hopefully prove it. It's my pleasure to do the testing and put these videos out there .

Perfect, that's a great to know, it seems that many people have noticed the same thing. So you choose the color based on the characteristics you'd like to have. In the testing the red seemed to be a bit more 'gummy' that was seen best when testing the under squinted connection.

Or an other easy solution is to take the color natural. It should not contain any pigment 🤣

I think it's possible, I just don't know how to 3D print them with no supports, maybe a good candidate for a resin print?

I've tested LVLs in the past and the performance was similar to that of solid oak, but at a fraction of the cost. As far as in a torsion test, I'm not sure, they'd be using different adhesives which could come into play. I'd image that they'd perform quite a bit better. I will see if I can get my hands on some, I should be able to.

I don't disagree. The best test is to make a "Thing" a frame and perform the tests on that full assembly. I'm working my way up to that, I think that's probably the end goal. I want to find the best connection possible and then we can create a full assembly, maybe even a 3D printer frame would be a good use-case and see how it performs. I can take the K1 printer's parts and recycle them into a 3D printed frame.

You should always try to test natural (un-pigmented) materials to test the resin alone. Colourants can affect strength and even print temperature along with other process parameters. This may be why the darker material seems to have failed less than the red.

Very good info, I'll keep that in mind and I will try to run some tests as well to confirm that. There are so many materials, so I'll try to stick to just one type for now.

Perfect, that's really helpful!

Some of the original Timber Frame style of connections are designed to be in tension or compression, I think they'd do really well there. I'll see if I can arrange some testing for that too!

I'll make sure to work that into some follow up testing videos!

@@NeedItMakeIt I'm not convinced it's very useful though. because the viewers won't be using the exact colors you are. but it can give an idea of how much more strength it might hold if it was printed fully in the strongest of the 2 colors...